Off Topic: Much to See in Yosemite, Even If You Can’t Do Much Of It

“I’m not joking.”

A young Yosemite National Park ranger warned the driver of a van who didn’t have an entry permit. The driver apparently said they just planned to drive through the park without stopping, but the ranger had to explain that they weren’t allowing that. She sternly told the driver to turn around and take a different route.

Yosemite is one of the national parks that’s so popular that the park service has implemented a reservation system to limit the number of visitors.

The driver of the van without a reservation was ahead of me as I pulled up to the Tioga Pass entrance on the east side of the massive park.

The reservation system must be working because, despite signs warning of possible long delays, I only had to wait behind that one van. After showing the ranger my reservation, a second ranger verified my pass and happily welcomed me to the park.

Yosemite is one of those parks that has such a reputation for splendor that it’s almost intimidating to enter. After all, this park was formed and expanded at the urging of none other than John Muir. It’s home to legendary sites like El Capitan, the Half Dome, and Yosemite Falls.

But my first stop in the park wasn’t one of those icons. Only feet from the entrance, the Gaylor Lakes trail is a spectacular way to begin a visit. Mountains and meadows provide scenic views as you take breaks to catch your breath, headed uphill to see a pristine mountain lake. If the park had only been this one stop, it would’ve still been worth the trip.

Heading west on Tioga Pass Road, the only road that crosses the Sierra Nevadas in Yosemite, major road construction was causing long delays. It has to be done sometime, I kept reminding myself, and decided to save the Tuolumne Meadows area for a future trip to avoid getting stuck in traffic even longer.

About halfway across Tioga Pass Road is Tenaya Lake, offering stunning views and a gorgeous beach. Even though the early June day was a bit cool for swimming, many people weren’t missing out on the opportunity. Just past Tenaya Lake is a great lookout called Olmsted Point, offering a distant view of Half Dome.

My campsite was at Hogdon Meadow Campground, which is near the western border of the park but still not too far of a drive from Yosemite Valley, home to the park’s biggest attractions.

Many of the sites here and at other campgrounds in the park are set up in a mini-group fashion: You park along the road and carry your gear to an area marked by a post, your bear locker, a fire ring, and a picnic table. Other campers are close by, and the first night I had to endure the inane chatter of teens from a youth group trying to prove how cool they are. It’s not my ideal camping situation, but it worked as a way of getting into the park.

Yosemite Valley was on the agenda for my only full day in the park (I could only get reservations for two nights). It turns out there is such a thing as getting there too early, though, because the visitors center and most of the other buildings weren’t open when I arrived.

In a sad site for media fans, the half-dozen newspaper boxes on either side of the general store were completely empty during my visit. The developed area at the core of the valley has a bit of a theme park feel, so I didn’t stay long. (At least here, the trees and rocks are real!)

Many of the best-known and most popular hikes at Yosemite are really only for those in peak physical condition. Despite having hiked hundreds of miles on semi-mountainous terrain in the past few years, I’m not there yet. I knew that the popular trails at Yosemite were beyond my ability due to the quick elevation gain of 2,700 feet to Upper Yosemite Falls, 3,200 feet to Glacier Point, and 4,800 feet to Half Dome.

So, I spent the day enjoying views of Yosemite Falls, El Capitan, and other landmarks from the valley. A shuttle is available but I opted to drive and did not have any problems finding parking spaces except at Vernal Falls. It’s worth noting that the walk to Lower Yosemite Falls is much longer from the parking area than it is from the shuttle stop. Either way, you still have to drive into the heart of the valley to get on the shuttle.

After my day in the valley, I still had time for one more stop, so I headed up to the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir. Maybe it would’ve been better to stay at my campsite: As I headed down the narrow road along the cliff, an oncoming driver moved across the centerline, causing me to instinctively move the right.

SMACK.

There goes the passenger-side mirror.

The knowledge that it would probably be difficult to replace was more annoying than actually losing the mirror. I removed the broken piece, wrapped the remainder in a plastic bag to keep the wiring from getting wet, and continued with my visit.

The dam at Hetch Hetchy is one of those spots that makes you think about the choices we make as a society. John Muir fought plans to build the dam, seeking to preserve the valley. But San Francisco needed the water, and they won.

The Hetch Hetchy controversy is said to have stoked opposition to a proposed dam at Echo Park, Colorado, which I’d just visited a few days earlier. That time, the dam opponents won (though Glen Canyon was flooded instead).

Yosemite is not best-known for its sequoia trees, but it has spectacular examples of them, too. Mariposa Grove was a convenient stop for a great hike on my way out of the park, even though there would be many more to see at Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks.

One area that I didn’t get to visit at all was Glacier Point Road, which is closed for the entire year due to road construction. Bridalveil Falls is also closed. I couldn’t help but feel that I’d missed out on much of Yosemite due to all of the construction and the physical demands of its best-known attractions.

But really, it’s just the start of another vacation plan. Another trip to Yosemite (with a new mirror) is in order to see those missed attractions, and maybe by then, I’ll be up for the hike to Upper Yosemite Falls!

NEXT: Exploring An Excellent Park Hidden Between Two Bigger Names